- Make sure the loom is fixed before I try this again.
- Sett at 6 epi. Either single or doubled, but wider sett for sure.
- Read Collingwood further and construct a better header row.
Showing posts with label cotton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cotton. Show all posts
Tuesday, January 15, 2013
So Far So Good
In the "January" department, I had three things to do - two were vest related and the third was to weave a selvedge rug. Because I'm a contrary person, I started with the last one first.
I got a big bag of selvedges from a "Dead Weaver's Stash" on my last trip to Palm Springs and that was my excuse to give this kind of weaving a try. They're the high end version of the selvedges that you can get from Pendleton. In my case, earth tones - browns, coppers and neutrals with the occasional splash of green.
After poking around the web, I chose 8/4 carpet warp for the warp and threaded at 12 epi on the Gilmore. This was driven as much by which reed I had (either 8 or 12) as anything else. And, since the selvedges were so cheap, I didn't have anything invested in this other than time. I wound a warp three yards long and 36" wide. Nothing special on the selvedges - not even doubled. Threaded straight twill on four shafts, warped back to front as per usual.
I wove a header using tripled 8/16 cotton left over from the rep weave placemats for a few picks to ensure that my threading was correct, spread the warp and to give me some fabric to hem, if I chose to go that route. I wound the selvedges on a rag shuttle and started weaving.
This was, to say the least, a challenge. The selvedges make for a HUGE shuttle and the Gilmore doesn't have the world's largest shed. My compromise was to wind some of each selvedge length onto the shuttle and then to manually pull the balance of the weft piece through by hand. That cut down on the number of times I had to wind a shuttle and the weaving would have been super slow-going no matter what. The Gilmore can put very heavy tension on the warp, and I can beat heavily, but after about 18" of weaving, I was knocking the pawl off of the back brake! This lead to a long pause while I had a look at the loom itself - and now I've a call to make to Stockton to discuss spare parts/rehab of this loom. Suffice to say the previous owner (at some point) made some mistakes with this loom and they need to be rectified. I don't think anything is damaged, and if I'd never woven a rug I'd have been unlikely to run into trouble, but now I've got work to do.
During the weaving, I felt pretty sure that I had sett this far too closely. The ends weren't sticking up at all, but from what I'd read, this would happen as part of the finishing process so I forged ahead.
With the help of a clamp and a hefty dose of patience I finished the weaving with only three strips of selvedge left over. I wove a wider header on the back end and then tied a Damascus Fringe (ala Collingwood) on both ends. I really, REALLY liked the finish this provides and makes for a clean edge to the rug. Then the whole thing went into the washer with a hope that those little ends would come springing out and I'd have a lovely, shaggy rug. That, however, is not what emerged from the washer.
Rather, the rug is more like a super springy version of a rag rug. The selvedges fulled into squishy tubes and the ends are locked down. It's wonderful to walk on - just not what I'd been aiming for. Also, the headers shrank up more than the rug, so they're drawn in a bit, but I'm not bothered by that either. The rug has been holding down the fort in the kitchen for the time being but it'll end up out in the studio shortly. It'll also need some kind of non-skid mat underneath.
Project "Lessons Learned" and points for the next time around:
Friday, January 4, 2013
Over(shot) the Moon
I should have seen this coming. After all the moaning and grumbling about sampling, it should have been perfectly obvious that I'd be charmed by this little whimsy. I present my new BFF (Best Fabric Forever) - overshot.
Look at those adorable little diamonds. Go ahead, I'll wait. Actually, let's look a little bit closer.
Aren't those little tweedy bits amazing? And they give just a hint of depth and interest to the color. Yeah, that's my "Dead Weaver Stash" coming through again. No idea what it is other than some kind of wool single with tweedy bits. Best of all, I'd not planned on using this yarn for anything other than a sample on this warp. But once I wove off that first motif, I was hooked.
Don't worry though, I had done a whole bunch of sampling with the 8/2 Mill End Wool that I'd originally planned on for this sample. It's a totally different animal.
In real life, the pattern is much less distinct. The wool bloomed much more than I expected and I don't think there's nearly enough contrast between the warp and pattern weft for the overall effect to come through. There's a sample for both of you - I was at least smart enough to ensure I had plenty. And I'll include a snippet of the yarns as well.
See? Super fuzzy. Super, DUPER fuzzy. Again, I should have (and kinda did) expected more bloom from this yarn than the tweed single - the single is quite round and "hard". I'd almost think it'd been fulled as part of processing. I don't think it's sized, but I can have another look at the unwashed samples.
The other yarn I sampled was a 5/2 Mercerized cotton. The finished fabric has an amazing sheen (mercerized) and the hand is quite nice but, again, the color is all wrong. I'm not at all fussed about it though - again, it was meant to be a sample. Getting a picture was difficult because of the reflection off of the cotton, but here goes.
Now, here's the really, REALLY cool part. This fabric is stretchy. I mean, REALLY stretchy. It's positively elastic! And that was completely out of the blue. Who knew? Is that predictable? It's gotta be the wool doing it's thing, but still. Crazy. This is like handwoven spandex.
And now I want to do more. Maybe a wool/silk combination. And something with a less (ahem) exciting motif that would lend itself to a jacket. That might just mean super fine threads, and I can get behind that, but there's absolutely more work to be done here. Not sure if this is vest-worthy, but there's absolutely more overshot in my future. You two should try this.
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